How to protect trees and shrubs from rodents and hares?
Woody plants and shrubs can not only freeze in extreme winter, suffer from provocative thaws in the cold season and return frosts in spring or even early summer, but also from rodents, which are mice and hares in gardens and berry bushes. By nature, these creatures are fearful and you will be very surprised if you notice a hare in your garden in the summer. More often you can see the mouse, but often in the late afternoon, when it literally merges with the soil. In normal times, they try to stay away from a person’s home.
- What is harmful rodents?
- Kinds of protection effective against mice
- Protecting the garden from hares
- If the tree is already damaged
What is harmful rodents?
The damage to garden crops from rodents is enormous: if a bush, even severely damaged by rodents, can still recover from the roots, then the tree will either have to be restored by vaccinations or putties, or it will be completely lost. After all, a tree, in fact, consists of two parts - a scion and a stock. On the scion on which the variety is grafted, rodents gnaw the bark in a ring and only the stock is left alive, that is, a savage who will not give you anything worthwhile (I mean the harvest of varietal fruits).
Young plants often can never be restored, as gnaws can also be very deep. Hares are able to gnaw quite thick branches literally in half, and mice to nibble sections of the cortex with a ring.
Naturally, after such injuries, there can be no question of any normal sap flow, it will be forever violated. Therefore, it is necessary to prevent such troubles, and gardeners, in order to ward off mice and hares from their trees and bushes, have come up with many interesting ways over the years of their trials and mistakes that can truly protect the winter garden.
Kinds of protection effective against mice
In total, there are two types of protection against rodents: it is absolutely safe for nature and quite effective mechanical method and slightly more unpleasant for the environment, but to some extent even more reliable, chemical way of protection.
With the mechanical method, trunks or trunks, if we are talking about shrubs, need to be tied up, tightened up, somehow closed so that rodents can see the "prey", but cannot get to it.
The very first option is coniferous spruce branches. They can also be tied to the base of bushes and tree trunks. Moreover, both large and recently planted. This method has a clear plus - it's cheapness. The method is quite effective: the needles are pricked, and if the trunks and trunks are well tied, then the rodents will not get to them. But there are also disadvantages - the law on forest protection provides a serious fine for all kinds of thefts. True, spruce branches can always be typed in clearings, of which there are many.
Plastic mesh - This is perhaps the most common form of plant protection against rodents. Of course, a plastic mesh is difficult to install on the trunks of shrubs, but it protects the trees reliably. The main thing is not to rush with the installation of a plastic mesh and not to save on it.
It is better to put it after the first snow falls, 5-7 centimeters, when it settles down - then you can install it by taking not a short piece, but height up to the first tree branches. Cons of a plastic net: it perfectly protects from mice, but it may not save from hares.
The hare is able to stand on its hind legs and gnaw wood above the net. Of course, in this case, shoots located above the vaccination site will suffer, but still, most of the shoots, and sometimes all, will be destroyed and the tree will have to acquire them again.
Ruberoid and roofing - good materials. They can also be tied with trunks of trees and shrubs, laying layers as tightly as possible, be sure to slightly bury in the soil and tying with a rope.
However, this material has a huge minus - during periods of thaw, it heats up very much, condensation forms under it, it can begin to rot or even rot in the bark, and wood is also heated. This is bad, because if such weather suddenly sets in winter, then only roofing material and roofing material need to be removed (you must admit that this is quite tiring).
Often gardeners just from time to time as possible tamped snow denser around bushes and trees. This is a good way to protect against mice, because it will not run on the surface of the snow, and in the compacted layer of snow it will not dig a move. True, for hares, on the contrary, it is an open road - run up along it and chew on it.
The easiest and safest way to protect against rodents is to treat the plants with a mixture clay and cow dungmixed in equal parts. As a result, you should have a consistency similar to a liquid garden var or sour cream, only this will stick and quickly harden on the trunk, rather than flow down. For a greater effect on ten liters of the mixture, you need to add about a tablespoon of carbolic acid and be sure to mix everything thoroughly.
This solution is just perfect for brushing raspberries, blackberries, young trees, and old trees too. You can lubricate higher so that even a large hare, standing on its hind legs, does not reach the branches. True, crust and the height of the snow cover can play a hare in your hand, in this case, loosen the snow more often, breaking the crust.
Professionals say that a composition consisting of four kilograms of clay, the same amount of fresh mullein, 90 g of creolin and 85 g of malathion (concentrated) will protect the garden by 100%. The main thing is to mix all this thoroughly and dilute with water, to a state close to that described above - that is, a garden varicum (which is better) crumpled in your hand (or better) or sour cream (which is slightly worse). After that, you can safely smear the stems up to the skeletal branches, and you can touch them too.
There are years when not only a lot of mice are on the site, but it seems as if the mice attacked us and want to capture us. In this case, you just need to use poison bait. Usually they are cooked on their own, using rye or wheat bread and grains of various crops for this purpose, previously placing them in poison.
But this method has a huge minus: it is extremely dangerous for birds and pets. How to be? - Make an interesting bait for mice: after processing grains or bread in a solution of any poison from rodents, place these poisonous components in tubes, well, say, from roofing material. Apart from mice, none of the pets and birds will get such a “food”. Of course, the most environmentally friendly way to use traps, mousetraps, traps, but all this drowns in winter under piles of snow.
Protecting the garden from hares
In appearance, they are pleasant creatures, but how many troubles happen when you realize that the garden is literally destroyed, as well as the well spent money and a lot of work.
From hares, you can solve the problem in one fell swoop by installing a real, durable and high fenceso that they could neither crawl under him nor jump over him. To make the fence “work”, when it is installed, it is necessary to bury the iron sheets thirty centimeters into the soil, so that the digging can be completely eliminated, and the height of the fence should be at least two meters, because sometimes a layer of snow can fall a meter or even a half.
In addition, in the area when a large amount of snow falls, or by doing it periodically, you can scatter stem wormwood. It is noted that hares cannot tolerate this smell, and hunters even often use this technique, literally bringing the hare to where they need to. In addition to scattering wormwood, it is possible to wrap tree trunks and bushes in the autumn or plant it nearby.
Hares do not tolerate pungent odors, therefore, for those who have a large farm, you can leave a piece of fat, wait until it rancid and hang out on a site near a tree (s) or bush (s), and sometimes with very rancid pork fat, it is enough to grate tree trunks to make hares they didn’t even touch him.
Fish fat, naphthalene - they are also rejected by hares and will not eat bark from such foul-smelling plants. Inveterate gardeners even make a mixture of fat and naphthalene in a ratio of about seven to one and coat this with trunks and shoots.
If you are an ardent fan of chemistry, we can advise you to purchase the drug “Karnofer". In the fall, they can cultivate the entire garden. It is said that its smell neutralizes the sensitive receptors of hares, they do not even smell edible.
But back to the fans of everything environmentally friendly. Wood ashif you have a lot of it, it can fulfill a double role: enrich the soil with potassium and protect it from hares. Peat crumb can scare them away, especially well spiced with kerosene (a liter per bucket of peat crumbs).
Rustling and strange sounds... Shy as a hare, they say so sometimes about this or that. But do not use the shy hare gardener? Now, for example, many cheap Chinese wind calls are sold that can be hung on trees. The wind will wave them, and the hares will be afraid. Although, to be honest, I personally do not particularly believe in this way of scaring away hares. Please write in the comments whether it was possible for anyone to scare away the hare with these methods.
The most enjoyable way. What could be more pleasant than a cat, especially to the extent of being well-fed, to the extent of being gentle and one who not only eats and sleeps, but also loves to run in the snow and hunt. Such, for example, Maine Coons, my favorite breed.
In size, they are hardly smaller than a hare, because they are quite large and their hunting instinct is highly developed. Maybe they won’t kill a hare, but they will certainly drive it away, but at the same time they will exterminate all rats and mice in the area. And the neighboring territories will also be cleaned, because the range of their adventures is sometimes huge.
If the tree is already damaged
If the tree turned out to be damaged and gnawing is not in the ring, then you need to make the simplest decoction of linden bark. In spring, just pick up the linden bark, chop it well and about half a bucket of linden bark, filled with ice water to the very top, boil for half an hour or a little more, then strain.
As a result, you should get a jelly-like mass, which grease the bites (if they are not all around!). On top of the greased parts, it is best to apply ordinary wrapping paper, pulling it well, but not binding it. When the tree grows, it simply breaks and there will be no constrictions. For about a month or two, an improvised dressing cannot be removed, then the wound should heal.
A slightly more modern method, which I learned relatively recently, is “plastic bandages”. Everything is simple here - the places of bites are wrapped in plastic wrap. What are the advantages? The film passes all the sun's rays and, as it were, protecting the wound, stimulates its healing, and all the processes occurring in the wound are clearly visible through the film.
If gnawing in a circle, then it is better to vaccinate with a bridge and move the tree, re-graft it or uproot it and plant a new one at this place.
That's all ways, if someone knows about others, write about them in the comments, it will be very interesting.